I checked Culture Hack today to see how cold it was in Dunedin today according to my AccuWeather badge – it said it’s 90F right now. Don’t believe it! I don’t know if we’ve gotten above 60 degrees Fahrenheit today. I do believe it when they say it could be in the mid-40s tonight. Our room heaters may see their first action this evening.
While I have have been working and researching diligently for the past week or so, we decided to have one last “tourist day” before M?lia begins school next week Monday. There are several train tours available on Taieri Gourge Railway, we opted for the shorter, shoreline route which runs from Dunedin to Palmerston and back. The day began overcast and ominous, so much so that we took umbrellas. We didn’t need to – the sky opened and once we left the Dunedin harbor area it turned out to be a fantastic day. The entire trip from Dunedin to Palmerston and back (same route) takes about four hours, with the half-hour stop in Palmerston figured in.
The trip is quite scenic – you follow the coastline for nearly the entire trip, through a few tunnels, and stop for a break in Palmerston. There is not much there to see, just a few shops near the train station. Marie said it reminder her of P?‘ia. Perhaps, but P?‘ia of 25 years ago and not today. A history of the railway can be found here. A few picks are posted on the Flickr page, just click on the pic at right to access them. Here’s some video footage as well. No commentary or music, just nice scenery:
OK, back to work…
It’s been a few days since my last report, been busy with UHH work duties, and dealing with a pressing technology issue there.
On Tuesday we had a meeting with the International Student Dean and principal at M?lia’s school, Logan Park High School. After reviewing her transcripts from N?wah?, they put her into year 13, which is the same as senior year in Hawai’i. She’s already done one semester of junior year at home, and NZ schools are just starting their school year now. As a result she doesn’t have to wear the school uniform, and has a choice of a number of classes she can take. That will all be figured out when she starts on Feb. 4. We also met a very nice, funny and energetic Maori teacher who teaches PhysEd and coordinates a bunch of programs, including a Maori singing and performing ensemble. His girlfriend is living in Hawai’i and he has a strong affinity for it. He treated us to lunch, invited us to his place for dinner this weekend, and is trying to recruit M?lia into his programs, and have her teach hula to the other students in the academy.
Marie and I had a number of errands to run near the Octagon (city center) yesterday, and put in a few miles in doing so. The first and foremost was to locate the NZ Immigration office. I had been asked to do three lectures in each of three different ethnomusicology classes on the subjects of my choice relating to Hawaiian music, and to lead one in ethnomusicology readings. My academic supervisors consider this part of the Ph.d. program, and will work with me in my preparations for these classes. I needed to apply for a work permit as I am only here on a student visa. It took about 20 minutes to fill out the application, but the kind officer read through it very quickly and approved the request. It cost $200 to submit (our visitor visas were free!), but as I will be paid to teach it will be worthwhile in the long run, and expose me to come theoretical concepts in ethnomusicology that may be applicable to my own research and writing.
Since we’ve arrived in New Zealand, we have been conscientious about conservation and environmental issues here. While we do many things at home as well (solar water heating and heater on a timer, recycling, etc.), it is easy to see how government policy here in NZ also works to benefit the environment.
As I have mentioned in a previous post, in order to have your refuse picked up on the side of the street, it must be in a bag that is approved by the Dunedin City Council. They run $6-8 per bag depending on size, and also have a weight limit. When we first arrived we used up the two small bags which were gratefully left behind by the previous tenant. This was due to the amount of items we needed to purchase to set up our flat, and some rubbish that was apparently left behind by the company or individual(s) who cleaned the flat prior to our arrival. Our second week saw a single, small bag of rubbish left for the collectors (see picture at right), along with our recycled items. This is a significant reduction from our waste generation in Hawai‘i. With five of us in Hilo (only three here) we sometimes generate three or four 40 gallon bags of rubbish per week. While I doubt the rubbish collectors search your bags to make sure that you’ve recycled bottles, cans and cardboard, the price of the approved garbage bags certainly encourage you to not include them with the non-recyclable items.
We’ve also been watching our electrical use. Light bulbs in the rooms we use most frequently have been converted to CFLs. I don’t know if we?ll actually see an overall cost savings ourselves when taking in the cost of the CFLs into account since we’re only here for five and a half more months. We do turn off the water heater when it’s not needed as there is no solar heating and no timer on it. In just less than two weeks here, we’ve consumed about 120 kilowatt hours of electricity. I don’t recall how that compares to our consumption in Hilo – I only watched to cost and not the actual use of electricity. I’ll pay closer attention when we return home. Of course, having no TV probably reduces our electricity use significantly. I’m sure that will go up when the cold weather rolls in and we need to use the room heaters since there is no central heating in our flat, and apparently central heating is rare here in Dunedin anyway.
I’ve noticed an incredible amount of glass shards from broken beer bottles on the sidewalks and streets all throughout the area near our flat. Either NZ drinkers – locals, students and vistors – are among the most inconsiderate I’ve ever seen, or the folks that pick up the recyclables drop a lot of the bottles. Regardless, this is not a town to go barefoot in, even in the great weather we’ve been experiencing.
I’m hoping that this experience will help us tighten up our ways when we return to Hawai‘i and reduce our impact on the environment.
It looks like what everyone has been telling us is true – that the weather has been spectacular by Aotearoa standards. Daily New Zealand News reports that it’s been been the best stretch of summer weather here since 1998-1999. To us it’s been like everyday weather back in Hilo. One drawback to our flat at this time is that there are only very small windows that can open in each room, and they don’t bring much relief from the stuffiness of the day. I’m sure that will be of little consequence when the weather turns cooler.
DNZN also reports that the North island will be getting some moisture from Cyclone Funa, which has been north of Aotearoa. No worries for us, it is well north of where we are.
I have a 3PM meeting with the chair of the Music Department, Dr. Henry Johnson, tomorrow, and will begin mapping out my work for the semester. I’ve been offered a part-time teaching assignment, but need to discuss the details of it with him. Of course I’m happy to share my knowledge of Hawaiian music with the students here.
We spent an enjoyable afteroon on a tour of the Dunedin Peninsula, including a visit to Lanarch Castle (see pictures linked to the graphic at right), and Nature’s Wonders. Nature’s Wonders takes you on an ATV vehicle ride to see New Zealand Furry Seals basking in the sun along the shorline, as well as a view of some yellow-eyed penguins, which are apparently the rarest penguins of the 18 known species. Supposedly there are only about 400 left, and none in captivity as they reportedly do not fare well under those circumstances. We watched a few of them come up on the beach from a covered walkway along a cliff, not getting any closer than about 100 yards from one individual who seemed oblivious to our presence. There was one kept in an area where we were able to get a bit closer. The pics of them on my Flickr account were taken with our Sony Handicam at maximum zoom, so you get a feel of how far we were from them.
According to our guide, Dunedin peninsula was the site of the first European settlements in New Zealand, and it was one of the most panoramic drives I’ve ever experienced. I did get a lot of nice video footage, and plan to have M?lia edit together and put it online so everyone can see it. It’s nice to have her learning something while we wait for the start of her school on February 4.
It’s hard to believe we’ve been in Dunedin a week now (well, in about 10 hours). Having thoroughly explored the city center and areas to the south of our flat and the university, we headed out to a short strip on St. King Street to the north of us. There we found a McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Domino’s Pizza as well as a number of bars and a big liquor store. Must be the end of town the university students frequent on evenings (drinking age here is 18). There are some some McDonald’s and Subway Sandwiches and a Burger King near the City Center.
A friend asked me to comment on the socio-economic situation here, and it’s a bit difficult to get a grasp of. Given the number of homes and population, it seems that the town should be bustling. Hilo is much smaller in terms of population and sprawl (of the primary residential and business area), but is much busier as far as vehicular traffic. There are some businesses further to the south of city center, and perhaps more of the locals frequent those areas than the university and city center area.
Food in the supermarket is priced similarly to Hawai‘i, at least for items that are locally raised, grown and processed. I’ve noticed that manufactured goods from afar are considerably more expensive. There is a KMart here, and a large Costco-like company called “The Warehouse”, though in reality I don’t think it is much larger than our Hilo Walmart. Prices there seem to be about 25% higher than what we would pay in Hawai‘i.
Eating out is a bit pricey, and we don’t do it much. It’s difficult to find a decent lunch for less than $10 not counting drinks, which as I’ve mentioned previously are pricey. We’ve found few nice sit down places like we are accustomed to in Hilo, though there are many Japanese, Thai, Chinese, Turkish, Indian and Pakistani restaurants everywhere. Portions are significantly smaller than those served in Hawai‘i restaurants as well (i.e., no 1 lb. laulau or poi found anywhere, obviously).
As far as population goes, by far the highest percentage of people that we’ve encountered have been Caucasian, either descendants of European settlers or immigrants themselves, as well as a significant number of people of Asian and Middle Eastern ancestry. Many of them have perfect kiwi accents with no noticeable traces of Asian or Middle Eastern accents, so they may have been born here or have lived here for a very long time. We’ve seen and met very few M?ori or those that would appear to be part-M?ori. While at Auckland, our taxi driver as well as some of the front desk staff were of S?moan ancestry. Regardless of their ethnicity and origins, we’ve been warmly welcomed and well treated. People are very inquisitive about our origins when they hear us speak, even when we simply ask for help in the market or on the street, and almost without exception they have given us credit and thanks for bringing our lovely Hawai‘i weather to Dunedin.
For those that keep asking us about the weather, I’ve added a Dunedin weather badge to the top of the first column on the right. Thankfully it can be set to display temperature in Fahrenheit. I had to do an Excel spreadsheet myself to be able to convert from Celcius to Farenheight. If you are interested, the formula is (C*1.8)+32 where “C” is the temperature in Celsius. Enjoy.
Marie and I headed out to the Dunedin train station near the city center today as they hold the Otogo Farmers’ Market there every Saturday. It’s about the same size or perhaps slightly smaller than the farmer’s market in Hilo, minus all of the new age, incense and crystal-type vendors you find there. The train station is about a 20 minute walk from our flat. The fruits and produce were nice, perhaps a bit more expensive than what we are used to. Cherries, apricots and berries are plentiful and expensive, but delicious. Sorry there are no pics, but we knew we’d be hauling a load back to the house so I left the camcorder at home with M?lia, who preferred to get caught up on developments back home with her friends. Soda is very expensive here, too. The lowest price I’ve seen for a small bottle of soda like you can buy in a convenience store in Hilo for $1.29-1.49 is $2.50. While I’ve tried to cut down on the caffeine over the past few months, I suspect it will drop even further while we are here.
We’ve been really surprised at how light the traffic is on the roads here. Dunedin is very spread out (population stated to be about 125,000) and has a lot of homes, and it seems there should be far more cars on the road. We’re still trying to figure out the Dunedin bus service, and may go for a ride tomorrow.
While there we ran into Stewart and Donna from WIC, our wireless ISP. Very nice people and their service is great. I highly recommend them for anyone in Dunedin. With connectivity I started getting caught up with my work for UHH while away, including dealing with a few Ulukau related issues.
We finally got wireless broadband at our flat today, so life is sweet. Just in time for the weekend. I’ve posted some pics of Dunedin and our place on my Flickr account. We also caught a performance of Rarotonga song and dance in the Octagon in the Dunedin City Center.
I need to catch up on some office work this weekend, so we’ll probably do less exploring this weekend than we did during the week, but who knows.